Prawns and Marinade Chicken

Yesterday was a Monday, the first day of the week, and apparently a Monday doesn't always have to be a day we fear, would very much like to skip and rather continue snoozing in bed wishing it was another lazy Sunday morning. Here in paradise yesterday's Monday turned out being one of the most relaxed and luxurious in a long time. However, the day started fairly early in the sunrise with a sad goodbye. Jane left us for some chic shopaholic days in New York before heading back to Sweden. It has been great fun having you here visiting us Jane, we miss you already! Jane got a special delivery ashore with the dinghy; Maria took her to the closest village from where we are anchored. The next village from here isn't that close though, about 4 Miles away and it took the girls about an hour to get there. Maria brought a handheld VHF and Cecilia and I were stand-by on channel 77 if there would be any problems with the delivery. While waiting for Maria to get back we did some baking and were hoping she would have found a grocery store since we were starting to run out of tasty supplies. We couldn't have been happier when she returned home with a smile on her face and showed us what she had found in the little town. Since we don't have a fridge working at the moment the amount of fresh food we are consuming isn't enormous so to speak. This Monday we big time changed that though since Maria had brought not only chicken but also prawns. When sailing around the Caribbean not having a fridge, small silly things you wouldn't care about at home can easily make one's day, like yesterday having prawns for lunch and marinade chicken for dinner. Yesterday continued lazily with not much happening besides reading, swimming and tanning. Today hasn't been that full of action either, simply another relaxed lazy day in paradise!  /First Mate

 

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Can I stay here forever?

Yesterday when we arrived to Guadeloupe we found out that if we wanted to go through Guadeloupe on River Salee it would be best to do it early on Saturday morning since the bridge openings aren't scheduled on Sundays, which was our intended day to do it. Suddenly we were in a hurry. Cecilia's bag was supposed to be at the airport, we needed to provision and Sofia and I desperately needed Internet in order to buy new cameras. Sofia's was stolen on the prize giving ceremony and mine stopped working a week ago. My sister, Catrine, will join us on Antigua on the 23rd of February so the cameras would have to be delivered before her departure from Sweden. Although it was fun to have a camera that worked under water as well as above we decided against it this time. We both thought that the Olympus cameras didn't take as good pictures as our old Canons, and another aspect, the price, made us go for the cheapest available Canon Ixus. For the moment we are glad that Cecilia and Jane both have cameras that we can use. To save time we split up, Jane and Cecilia took a cab to the airport to get Cecilia's lost bag. Sofia and I went to buy food and then found Internet and managed to order new cameras. When we met up again to go back to the boat it was already 9 pm. We had parked Volare very central, close to Place de la Victoire, the only downside was the unpleasant fish smell that came from the quay mostly used by fishing boats to unload their catch. The locals laughed at us while we loaded Volare with more and more things and in the end Cecilia's big backpack, when we finally left the maximum three persons note wasn't visible at all. Back at the boat I started to read closely in the pilot about the passage on River Salee, it's a very narrow river and the depths is in the last part seldom more than 1,8 m. A B31 like Cantare is supposed to have a draught of 1,7 m. But, I foresaw that we would sink a bit deeper when loaded for this adventure and therefore we repainted the waterline 6 cm higher than the old one. The new waterline is almost perfect, it depends a bit on how much water and diesel we carry, so I calculate that we have a draught of 1,76 m making it possible, if only barely, for us to go on the river. Off course I was a bit nervous, especially since we don't have a working depth sounder anymore, now seems to be the time when the equipment start to crack-up. This morning we sat the alarm on 3.40 am, horribly early, since we all were very tired from the last crossing from St. Lucia. We took up the anchor and motorized slowly towards the first bridge and waited for the opening together with four other boats. It opened at 5 am and then we had half an hour to reach the second bridge. After the second and last bridge there were supposed to be mooring buoys, since the last passage is the trickiest we had planned to pick up a buoy and wait there until it was high water and daylight. We found no buoys, instead we dropped the anchor and mosquito secured the boat (the river is lined by mangrove) before we slept a few hours. The last passage was no problem and not once did we touch the bottom. The hardest part of today's short trip was instead to find our way to the anchorage beside the island Illet a Caret in Grand Cul-de-Sac Marin. There where hardly any buoys and our plotter and chart in the pilot didn't show the same things. During the trip on the river I concluded that the pilot book was the most accurate and therefore followed it, but it was tricky without depth sounder. We were totally dependent on eyeball navigation for the first time and when the sun hid behind clouds we sometimes had to slow down and wait until the sun reappeared. I feared that we would in best case end up on a sandbank, like in Denmark, but I also had in mind a story another sailor told us in Soufriere, about how they had fucked up (his own words) on the windward coast of Martinique and lost their boat on corals. I told Sofia to stand on the boom to get a better view over the water and now we are safely anchored on sand bottom. We are surrounded by reefs and azure blue water, it's amazingly beautiful and I love this place. We are the only sail yacht anchored here and solitude and peacefulness is what I expect of the coming days. / The Captain

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Busy Party Days

Since you last heard from us we've been in Marigot Bay and Rodney Bay in St Lucia and have now arrived in Guadeloupe. We arrived in Marigot Bay sunday afternoon and decided to take a moring bouy. At the arrival we celebrated with Sangria. That was lovely! The evening continued with some locals in a karaoke bar. Luckily for us, and the locals, they closed down the karaoke session before we had drunken enough rum drinks to have the courage to sing out loud in public. In the morning we decided to leave Marigot Bay early since no cooling winds could reach us inside the bay. By that time I was starting to learn that there is always at least one more thing to do before taking off. This time it was me who delayed us since I had realised that I hade made a mistake when booking my flight to New York and had to fix it. It all turned out to the best though, we will be able to stay one more day in Guadelope instead of rushing to Antigua and I will not have to do one more night of sailing and seasickness. When we finally left Marigot Bay we had to take a swim as soon as we got out of sight from the boat boys. In Rodney Bay we weren’t greeted by the usual bunch of boat boys. Instead a Scandinavian looking American greeted us with the phrase “Are you the four Swedish girls that I’ve heard a roomer about?”. We ended up having a drink with him and found three more guys which wanted to have dinner with us. For two nights we had great company by a mix of guys from US, Spain, Italy, Britain and France. We hade rum dinks, barbecue and baileys on big and fancy boats. We also had a tour on the boat previously called Great Britain II, nowadays Whitbread Heritage. Overall, it was some great days and nights in Rodney Bay. The Captain and First Mate walked down memory lane and pointed out docks and other memorable places from when they reached Rodney Bay after finishing the ARC. Sadly, they realized only hours before we had planned to leave St Lucia that they had missed some dear friends. We left St Lucia in the early morning after we had redone the math on when we had to leave in order to arrive in Guadeloupe in day light. We have now sailed 34 hours and recently arrived in Guadeloupe. Both me and Deckhand Cecilia have had our own watches during the days and I have been feeling a bit better thanks to calm winds, sea bands an seasickness pills. To finish this story telling off I can tell you that just before we arrived in Guadeloupe we stopped the engine and took a swim and it felt cold in the water, it was 30 degrees Celsius!

Lots of love / Deckhand Jane

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Leaving St Lucia for Guadelope

We have had a couple of wonderful days here in Rodney Bay, the place where it all started when we arrived after the Atlantic crossing. Now we are heading out to sea again so more updates will come regarding what we have been up to the last couple of days. Later! /First Mate

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Climbing or Drinking the Pitons, that is the Question.




Yesterday was devoted to the theme of the Pitons. However, the four of us decided to interpret the theme little differently. In order to give you readers a little background the Pitons are two volcanic mountains, the Gros Piton (771 m) and the Petit Piton (743 m) which beautifully rise up next to the little village called Soufrière in St Lucia. I have been talking about climbing these mountains since we entered the Carribean and ever since Maria has claimed that when I would be climbing she would take care of the other Piton, namely the local St Lucian beer called Piton. And indeed she did, but at first both Maria and Jane joined me and Cecilia a quarter of the steep climb towards the top. Yeah, the climb up the Petit Piton was a lot steeper than we imagined. At first we thought we could climb the mountain our own but on the way there a local Rasta man called Pascal insisted on guiding us even though we explained to him we wouldn’t afford paying him as much as the passengers from the cruise liners can. Thanks Pascal for guiding us, without you we would never have made it! When Maria and Jane left us for the little more refreshing and tasteful Pitons at a restaurant in the village, Cecilia and I continued the climb with ropes and shortness of breath. At least I felt that the last six months’ lack of greater scheduled physical activity and increased beer consumption have left their mark on me. However, eventually after having had to use ropes in order to climb up the steep rocks we made it to the top with sweat pouring down all over. The top of the Petit Piton gave us a fantastic view of St Lucia and we could also see all the way to St Vincent. The way down was a lot easier than the way up and after Pascal had shown us some of the delicious local fruits that can be find in the forest the three of us joined the tipsy girls for some cold tasteful drinkable Pitons.

Today we have left Soufrière and continued to a little famous bay called Marigot Bay, in any time we will go limin’ with some locals. But before leaving you I would like to take the opportunity to send a special greeting to my aunt Agneta Lindström and Maria’s grandma Kerstin Ingerup who helped us sew the courtesy flags for the countries we are visiting now. Thank you so much! Love / First Mate

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