Not only Dirty Work in Grand Turk

Position N 20° 54,900' W 72° 25,308' 2100 UTC

 

We did indeed spend a lot of time repairing the toilet and cleaning the boat, but Grand Turk had luckily lot more than shitty/dirty/disgusting/bad smelling work to offer. Grand Turk, one of the many islands the country Turks and Caicos consist of, inhabits around 3500 people with different backgrounds and nationalities. Until the 1960s Grand Turk relied upon salt exportation, salt produced from the island's many salt ponds. Then salt production suffered hard from competition and was eventually not profitable. However, Turks and Caicos were again put in the spotlight when the US military built a military base on Grand Turk. When the military base closed in the 1980s many people left Grand Turk since there weren't any jobs. Not until the cruise ship dock was built a couple of years ago and the opening of a cruise ship center Grand Turk recovered. Now the islands primary income and I wouldn't exaggerate too much if I said it was the only income, can be derived from the in general 5 cruise ships per week that enter Grand Turk. The cruise ship center is built next to the dock and all that the passengers need to do is to wander off the ship and they enter a shopping paradise with tax free products and local made necklaces mixed together. There are restaurants in true American spirit, a beach full of beach chairs, swimming pools, water activities like diving, snorkeling, dinghy driving, and etcetera. Pretty much everything a vacationist could ask for. This is one part of Grand Turk, when the cruise ships leave in the late afternoon the other part of Grand Turk remain, that is the sleepy friendly island with the most stunning sunsets I have seen in a long time. Everybody knows everyone and is acquainted with everything that is happening on the island; consequently it didn't take long until the whole island knew about the three Swedish girls that had sailed there. The fact that we most of the time where the only sail yacht anchored off Grand Turk should maybe be added to the story.

 

One night we had dinner on the place everybody gathers on Fridays, the Grand Turk Inn. Tasty food (like Grand Turk's local delicacy - conch, a little sea creature that lives in shells) and good live band entertainment which kept us dancing until late. Therefore we where kind of tired when Maria and I went morning diving the next dive. However, there were people who parted harder, the dive master who was suppose to take us out diving had had too many rum shots the other night, and yeah, he was in a very good mood when we left the restaurant, so he had to be replaced. Safety and diving aren't that equal in Carribean, I for instance got a broken depth control and had to glimpse at Maria's from time to time to have any idea of the depth. But apparently that's the way it is around here, we have experienced it on all the dive centers we've been but luckily the dive masters seem to know what they are doing and so far we haven't heard of any accidents. Feels good though being fully insured by, yeah, I think you all know by now, the insurance company Europeiska. We got two good dives among the beautiful corals but we both felt that they could have been even better if we had gone to bed little earlier the night before.

 

The little town, Cockburn, which also, despite its size, is the capital of Turks and Caicos, got a certain rustic charm; it is beautiful in its own way with a lot of interesting architecture. There's a national museum in town which we visited, we haven't been to museums since Europe so it was exciting!

 

What struck me the most on Grand Turk, were the happy friendly people. They are genuinely friendly and welcoming and before we left the island I hade made a lot of new friends and begun to understand the life of a small island like Grand Turk.

 

We left Grand Turk yesterday in the sunset. The full moon later lightened the sky but then something happened that forced me put on my sea clothes which I haven't worn since the Atlantic crossing. When Catrine woke me up at 4 am the rain had started pouring down and refused to stop. As a result I ended up spending 2,5 hours in downpour and 1,5 hours in drizzle with bad visibility. I wont complain though, in Carribean fresh water is often in short supply so it was pretty nice to have a morning fresh water shower, or maybe I should correct myself, it was nice until the sea clothes stopped being waterproof and it was getting cold.

 

Now it has stopped raining and the sun is trying to come through, we have about 200 Miles left to Cuba, where we are estimating to arrive sometime on Good Friday. Over and Out/ First Mate (a First Mate who can use her computer again thanks to a very nice local named Tim on Grand Turk who helped her fix the broken computer cord. Thanks again Tim!)

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PIctures from Grand Turk

New pictures from our sailing to Grand Turk are uploaded. You find them on our Picasa site; http://picasaweb.google.com/SailingCantare

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Dirty Work!

Two days ago when I did my morning routines in our small bathroom I noticed a funny thing. There were some brown liquid running down the inside of the hull. Hmm, could that be… something from the toilet perhaps? Oh yes it could! Maria came over and had a look at it and we agreed that it had to be the toilet septic tank that was overflowing. The toilet onboard Cantare has not been working fully correctly for a while now but in true “mañana-mode” we have just ignored it and thought that we could fix it later on. But maybe not. We had to take care of it straight away otherwise we couldn’t use our toilet for the rest of the trip. Yuck! This was not a funny chore that we had ahead of us.

Maria went trough some suggestions of what might cause the problem. First we tried the easy solution, sticking a wire in through the hull fitting from outside. Nothing happened. Next step was taking of the cover of the waste pump to check if there was something stuck in there. This procedure was done by me with great caution because Maria had told me that the waste might splash out of it (over my face perhaps). I covered up my hair inside a plastic bag to protect it and held my breath while screwing of the lid. To my happiness nothing did splash out of it though. Inside the pump it was almost all dried up which led us to the conclusion that there was nothing wrong with the waste pump. Okay, time for next step. Maria took down the air filter to check for blockage and found some nasty stuff, some of it spilling over her arm. Sadly that didn’t solve the problem either. So then we decided to take the whole hose system down. Sofia took the hoses apart and then we tried sticking a wire into the hoses to feel if there were anything stuck in them. In the one that was directly attached to the bottom of our septic tank it felt like there was something plugging it. But since that hose was quite long and then turned 90 degrees in the end we didn’t get enough strength to push it away with our wire. To get a better angle for the wire and to get more strength we could remove the top of it which would leave us with only the curved part at the end. The problem with this was that as soon as the plug was removed almost all the content of the septic tank (80 l) would flow out of it since this hose was placed at the bottom of the tank and only curved up about 15 centimetres after taking of the last part of it. But we had no choice, it was either this or surviving without a working toilet onboard for the rest of the trip, so we decided to do it.

We took of the last part and started pushing down the wire. Once again nothing happened. Perhaps the wire was to weak so we constructed a new instrument out of our never used fish grill. The fish grill is made out of steal wire that was bendable but still stable so after bending it to the right shape we had a perfect instrument. I tried poking at the plug for at least twenty minutes but had no success so finally I gave it up and jumped in to the water to freshen up a bit instead. While lying in the water I suddenly heard Maria saying “It’s happening….yuck, I’m getting it all over me”. Maria had just bended the wire a bit more and tried for maybe 5 minutes when this started to happen and although she was glad that the plug was gone I think she was a bit startled over the fact that the waste now was flowing out in rapid speed. We tried to capture all of it in big trash bags but of course some of it got away and Maria got some more nasty stuff all over her. After about 10 minutes we had filled two trash bags and the flow was finally stopping. Puh! Now we just had to get rid of the waste. And put all the hoses together again. And clean the boat properly. And ourselves. We emptied the trash bags directly in the ocean, which was a bit disgusting but the only solution at the time. Luckily we were anchored all alone in a bay so we didn’t poison the bathing water for anyone else but ourselves. After putting the hoses together and cleaning the worst up we had to stop working because it was getting dark outside. We had been working with this all day long!

The next day we continued the cleaning and cleaned almost everything in the boat, very carefully. So for one and a half day we took a break from our perfect vacation in paradise and actually did some really dirty work. It was tough but it feels good to have it fixed and a freshly cleaned boat now that we are leaving for Cuba.

/Deckhand Catrine

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hamnen.se

New post in Swedish can be found on www.hamnen.se! / The Captain

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Clearing in Grand Turk

Yesterday evening the wind picked up again to a steady 20 knots making it possible for us to approach Grand Turk with an average speed of 7 knots during the last hours, much faster than expected . We decided to anchor outside the shallows and could turn on the anchor light at 11.20 pm. The swell was big and neither of us slept very well. After breakfast we moved 2 nautical miles south where the swell was slightly smaller. We arrived at the same time as a big cruise ship started to unload it’s passenger. Lot’s of Americans crowded the artificial village and we felt slightly out of place in our salt drenched cloths. No one knew where customs and immigrations were and we got tricked into taking a cab to the airport, there we were told to go back to the harbour master outside the cruise centre. In a building that looked like a workshop we found a lady willing to clear us in and are now legally allowed to stay in Turks and Caicos for seven days. / The Captain

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