Catrine and I are hanging out on St. Barths until Monday when we will sail to St. Martin and meet up with Sofia again and Emelie. Emelie is back in the West Indies! Not on Cantare though, but on Alan's boat Starfire. They met in Las Palmas and seem to stick to eachother since then. However her house is on the market soon and she will join us on Cantare somewhere on Cuba and stay with us for our second Atlantic crossing. We are so happy about that! Hopefully it will be another lazy crossing with even less watchkeeping. Have a nice weekend! / The Captain
Saturday, 27 February 2010
Sofia has left Cantare
Catrine and I are hanging out on St. Barths until Monday when we will sail to St. Martin and meet up with Sofia again and Emelie. Emelie is back in the West Indies! Not on Cantare though, but on Alan's boat Starfire. They met in Las Palmas and seem to stick to eachother since then. However her house is on the market soon and she will join us on Cantare somewhere on Cuba and stay with us for our second Atlantic crossing. We are so happy about that! Hopefully it will be another lazy crossing with even less watchkeeping. Have a nice weekend! / The Captain
Thursday, 25 February 2010
Pictures from Antigua
Yesterday we heared a rumour about us being in this month's Practical Boat Owner, but we haven't seen it ourselves yet. Check it out if you can and want. /The Captain
Time to leave Antigua
Monday, 22 February 2010
9th day in paradise
My journey to Cantare began with 24 hours delay, but then, very excited and exhausted, I finally reached the restaurant Hemingways in St Johns where the rendez vous with the Cantare crew was set. After many hugs, some gossip, other short updates and a couple of Caribs we were ready to go to Redcliff Quay where Cantare was waiting for us. Two neighbouring boats then joined us with Rum and Coca Cola and then a visit to a Night Club where we danced all night long with the locals.
The next day we had a short sailing to Jolly Harbour. The scenery was astonishing and I had to convince my self that what I saw was for real and that I was finally sailing on Cantare in the Caribbean. When we arrived to Jolly Harbour we found out that this is a very well organized marina with a nice supermarket, sports club, etc etc. So the girls were now very happy not only for having a working fridge, but for being able to fill it with nice and fresh food from the supermarket. Me and Cecilia took also the opportunity to play some tennis in the heat. The next two days were all about just hanging out and then sadly saying good bye to Cecilia.
After celebrating Sofia’s birthday in English harbour, that you can see pictures from, me and Maria decided to have a short sailing to Green island. We had heard that the island is very nice and calm. We took off and after only two hours we had reached the island. The first thing we spotted was an abandoned ship that was up on a reef. We decided that we would go closer to the yacht with our dinghy after anchoring Cantare. After some snorkelling and swimming we had a quick look at the wreck from our dinghy. Unfortunately we couldn’t see from which country the ship was, but we suspected that it was recently abandoned but that some equipment was missing. The rest of the night we were discussing different scenarios on the background of the ship, how it ended up on that reef and how it was abandoned. These discussions were accompanied with a nice Cantare cooked dinner and some Spanish sangria.
We decided to spend the following morning at the close by beach. It was beautiful there, looked like a post card. White sand, turquoise water and Cantare in the bay, with two other sail boats. Me and Maria agreed, this was paradise!
In the afternoon we came back to English Harbour, were we picked up Sofia at Odin. She had been baby sitting and spending her time there while me and Maria were away. Then we had some nice drinks with our friends from El Mar, Havfrilla, Odin and Safari at Safari, before we all took off with our dinghies to the beach. The plan was to walk to Shirley heights where they arrange live music and barbeque every Sunday. This walk was not that easy to do since there were different paths to choose between, and they all ended up in a field of cactuses. So the group was shortly split into three smaller groups. I don’t know exactly how the others managed to arrive to Shirley heights by foot, but me and the group I ended up with had a drive with the owner of the restaurant where we had celebrated Sofia’s birthday. Since we had children with us we decided they would sit inside the car and the rest of us had a nice view of the sun set from the back of the pick up.
Now I only have two days left in paradise and I must say that the time here has been absolutely fantastic. I can’t stop being breathlessly impressed by all these long sailors. Boats with children on board, solo sailors, Maria and her Cantare crew. What they are doing is expressing that nothing is impossible. It only takes lot of planning (all though I have also met sailors with very limited preparations), hard work and commitment to do a journey like this to paradise. /Deckhand Ariana
Friday, 19 February 2010
The Old Lady says THANK YOU!
Thursday, 18 February 2010
Sofias's 25th Birthday!
"He insulted me in front of my wife"
What a morning we experienced yesterday in Jolly Bay, Antigua! We witnessed a French sailor, an obviously very inexperienced sailor on a chartered sail yacht, crashing an American yacht at the fuel dock which ended up in a police matter
After finally having picked up Ariana in the capital St John
's we continued south to Jolly Bay. For Cecilia, who has been our guest for a month now, Jolly Bay was the last stop on her vacation, too bad she had to leave us and fly home for work. We miss you Cecilia! However we had some very nice last days with Cecilia together with the Norwegians on s/y Draugen and Fortitudo and even our cutest Alaskan fan showed up. After having waved goodbye to Cecilia yesterday morning we filled the diesel tank. Last time we refueled was in Las Palmas, and I must say that having a 170L tank but just a 12HK engine can sometimes be very preferable. We managed to run empty 5m from the petrol station and since we had totally ran out of fuel we needed to bleed the engine. Before doing that we got a spectacular drama to watch. Suddenly a Frenchman, who apparently doesn't know the length of his yacht (no, not his yacht, the chartered yacht he was sailing), ran into an American yacht and ruined a navigation light. Fine, these things can happen and are easily solved with an apology and a compensation for the damage you have caused, but no When the French yacht finally was moored at the fuel dock, which also was a part of the story with them having fenders put way too high up, and a shaky wife incapable of handling the lines, the French guy starts refueling as if nothing happened. The owner of the crashed American yacht is standing next to him waiting for an act of contrition, but nothing happens, the Frenchman didn't even look him in the eyes and said I'm sorry, which got the American furious and an argumentation starts. The Frenchman acts very weird and is unwilling to take the blame for the damage. The American wants to sue him and harbor security is called but the Frenchman just refuses to understand what he has done and thinks the American is just rude to him. Then the Frenchman tried to seek some kind of sympathy from me by claiming that the American "insulted my in front of my wife", what nonsense! The argumentation continues but the Frenchman is just acting stupid and in the end the police are called. When we are leaving the fuel dock the police arrive. What we have heard the American finally got a compensation for his broken light. But we don't know what happened to the stupid Frenchman, maybe he ended up in jail or in seamanship school.Today we have sailed a bit further south to English Harbour, where there will be some kind of a quarter of a century party tomorrow; you are all more than welcome to join! I
'm getting old, or I prefer the way my skipper puts it, i.e. I'm turning the perfect age. Nighty night! /First Mate
Tuesday, 16 February 2010
Sunday, 14 February 2010
Sailing (motoring) covered in Ashes
What we have heard Ariana should finally be here any minute now, so I am gonna go welcoming her now. And do you know what? In her luggage is our new fridge and if this one will work there will be no more fridge discussions, haha, but we very much like the comments we gotten about the fridge, keep make comments folks! We just love your feedback! Love// First Mate Sofia
Friday, 12 February 2010
A wonderful day ending in possible disaster
When we woke up this morning, strangely very early, we noticed how calm it was. There were no waves and we cold easily see the starfishes on the bottom. We spend the morning getting in and out of the water, enjoying our last hours in heaven. Cecilia asked me if we couldn
't stay a bit longer. But if we were to take the shortcut through the reef we had to leave when the sun was high so that we could eyeball navigate our way out safely. Yesterday I got the girls to hoist me up in the mast so that I could get a good view over the passage which the pilot book describes as a very narrow channel that requires real local knowledge. Since the trip to the anchorage was tricky I thought this short very distinct passage would be much better and it would also save us hours. Of course the girls were up for an adventure. The conditions were perfect, sun behind us from a clear sky and small waves that made it easy to see the colour of the water. Without any problem we made our way through the reef, big braking waves on our sides. On our way to Port Louis, a small fishing village, we talked about how wonderful the day was and how we wished we could stay another day. Since Ariana arrives tomorrow that's not possible, we intend to sail or motorize during the night to be on Antigua in the morning. We took Volare into Port Louis to check out the village and maybe have a nice dinner ashore. When we had tied up the dinghy we strolled on the small empty streets wondering why there weren't much people around. The village had an atmosphere of long gone splendour and we couldn't find an open restaurant. We bought beer and cheese in an open shop and started to walk back to Volare. The whole time we got small sand corns in our faces and on our way back they became more and more annoying. After a while we could see grey dust of ashes on our bodies. A local we met had told us something about a volcano and that causing the big dark cloud that had blocked out the sun in the afternoon, now that suddenly made sense. Volare was covered in ashes and it was hard to keep the eyes open on our way out to Cantare. Cantare is surrounded and covered by greyness and we can't see very far from the boat, it's like being in thick mist. We all took a quick swim to get rid of the worst dust and now we are hiding inside, waiting for it to get better. After reading a bit in the pilot book we now have a theory. Montserrat a small volcanic island, situated NE of Guadeloupe, resumed activity 1995 and is still active, that must be the cause of the ashes. Our problem, we need to go to Antigua tonight, maybe we will have to do it in goggles. / The CaptainThursday, 11 February 2010
The art of doing nothing
The last couple of days we have been practicing the art of doing nothing, being anchored out in turquoise water. So what are we doing out on Cantare, all by our selves in paradise? I
'll try to give you a glimpse of our acts out here. First of all, doing nothing is not true, all days have a few routines. The day starts with long sleep (until you wake up probably around 10 am), after breakfast in sunshine it's about time to get the sun lotion-session, which mainly means me, deckhand Cecilia. Although I think the other to brownies onboard should put on as much spf 50 as I do, to even out the colours here. Me and first mate Sofia have also extended this session by giving each other a nice back massage..!The day is mainly spent on deck, tanning, reading, girl talking, having Spanish lessons, more tanning, discussing the future, and off course several nice swims. In between that, my mission is to stress Maria and Sofia to get some stuff done, that have been on manana for too long. Life here somehow gets you on permanent manana-mode!
The evening routine starts with a glass of more or less warm wine (our fridge is broken) watching the sunset. Then one of us starts with the cooking and dinner is enjoyed in the cockpit. Every day has one big question to be answered
Just about 500 meters from us there is a nice tiny island were I thought we could play Expedition Robinson for a few days, but it turned out to be crowded with people during daytime. So today we decided to make some action and do like the French-Guadeloupe people do here
go picnicking. We made a pasta salad of what we could find onboard, (pasta, tuna, tomatoes, corn and cucumber) and brought it on the dinghy, with wine and cookies. After a great snorkeling trip in the reef nearby, we had the best pick nick ever out on the little island called Il Caret.
Being not as used to the quiet life onboard I sometimes get a bit restless and therefore I made sure to get rid of some extra energy, - by getting me and Sofia some training. A few coralls out in the sand and we could do the so called training "Idioten", followed by a run around the island (tiny), we then wheeled around the beach like kids. Maria just shook her head and laughed while doing it like sailors do reading yet another good book.
Tomorrow night we leave and are going to sail during night up to Antigua were will pick up our next guest, Ariana.
/Deckhand Cecilia
Wednesday, 10 February 2010
Prawns and Marinade Chicken
Yesterday was a Monday, the first day of the week, and apparently a Monday doesn
't always have to be a day we fear, would very much like to skip and rather continue snoozing in bed wishing it was another lazy Sunday morning. Here in paradise yesterday's Monday turned out being one of the most relaxed and luxurious in a long time. However, the day started fairly early in the sunrise with a sad goodbye. Jane left us for some chic shopaholic days in New York before heading back to Sweden. It has been great fun having you here visiting us Jane, we miss you already! Jane got a special delivery ashore with the dinghy; Maria took her to the closest village from where we are anchored. The next village from here isn't that close though, about 4 Miles away and it took the girls about an hour to get there. Maria brought a handheld VHF and Cecilia and I were stand-by on channel 77 if there would be any problems with the delivery. While waiting for Maria to get back we did some baking and were hoping she would have found a grocery store since we were starting to run out of tasty supplies. We couldn't have been happier when she returned home with a smile on her face and showed us what she had found in the little town. Since we don't have a fridge working at the moment the amount of fresh food we are consuming isn't enormous so to speak. This Monday we big time changed that though since Maria had brought not only chicken but also prawns. When sailing around the Caribbean not having a fridge, small silly things you wouldn't care about at home can easily make one's day, like yesterday having prawns for lunch and marinade chicken for dinner. Yesterday continued lazily with not much happening besides reading, swimming and tanning. Today hasn't been that full of action either, simply another relaxed lazy day in paradise! /First Mate
Sunday, 7 February 2010
Can I stay here forever?
Yesterday when we arrived to Guadeloupe we found out that if we wanted to go through Guadeloupe on River Salee it would be best to do it early on Saturday morning since the bridge openings aren't scheduled on Sundays, which was our intended day to do it. Suddenly we were in a hurry. Cecilia's bag was supposed to be at the airport, we needed to provision and Sofia and I desperately needed Internet in order to buy new cameras. Sofia's was stolen on the prize giving ceremony and mine stopped working a week ago. My sister, Catrine, will join us on Antigua on the 23rd of February so the cameras would have to be delivered before her departure from Sweden. Although it was fun to have a camera that worked under water as well as above we decided against it this time. We both thought that the Olympus cameras didn't take as good pictures as our old Canons, and another aspect, the price, made us go for the cheapest available Canon Ixus. For the moment we are glad that Cecilia and Jane both have cameras that we can use. To save time we split up, Jane and Cecilia took a cab to the airport to get Cecilia's lost bag. Sofia and I went to buy food and then found Internet and managed to order new cameras. When we met up again to go back to the boat it was already 9 pm. We had parked Volare very central, close to Place de la Victoire, the only downside was the unpleasant fish smell that came from the quay mostly used by fishing boats to unload their catch. The locals laughed at us while we loaded Volare with more and more things and in the end Cecilia's big backpack, when we finally left the maximum three persons note wasn't visible at all. Back at the boat I started to read closely in the pilot about the passage on River Salee, it's a very narrow river and the depths is in the last part seldom more than 1,8 m. A B31 like Cantare is supposed to have a draught of 1,7 m. But, I foresaw that we would sink a bit deeper when loaded for this adventure and therefore we repainted the waterline 6 cm higher than the old one. The new waterline is almost perfect, it depends a bit on how much water and diesel we carry, so I calculate that we have a draught of 1,76 m making it possible, if only barely, for us to go on the river. Off course I was a bit nervous, especially since we don't have a working depth sounder anymore, now seems to be the time when the equipment start to crack-up. This morning we sat the alarm on 3.40 am, horribly early, since we all were very tired from the last crossing from St. Lucia. We took up the anchor and motorized slowly towards the first bridge and waited for the opening together with four other boats. It opened at 5 am and then we had half an hour to reach the second bridge. After the second and last bridge there were supposed to be mooring buoys, since the last passage is the trickiest we had planned to pick up a buoy and wait there until it was high water and daylight. We found no buoys, instead we dropped the anchor and mosquito secured the boat (the river is lined by mangrove) before we slept a few hours. The last passage was no problem and not once did we touch the bottom. The hardest part of today's short trip was instead to find our way to the anchorage beside the island Illet a Caret in Grand Cul-de-Sac Marin. There where hardly any buoys and our plotter and chart in the pilot didn't show the same things. During the trip on the river I concluded that the pilot book was the most accurate and therefore followed it, but it was tricky without depth sounder. We were totally dependent on eyeball navigation for the first time and when the sun hid behind clouds we sometimes had to slow down and wait until the sun reappeared. I feared that we would in best case end up on a sandbank, like in Denmark, but I also had in mind a story another sailor told us in Soufriere, about how they had fucked up (his own words) on the windward coast of Martinique and lost their boat on corals. I told Sofia to stand on the boom to get a better view over the water and now we are safely anchored on sand bottom. We are surrounded by reefs and azure blue water, it's amazingly beautiful and I love this place. We are the only sail yacht anchored here and solitude and peacefulness is what I expect of the coming days. / The Captain
Saturday, 6 February 2010
Busy Party Days
Lots of love / Deckhand Jane
Wednesday, 3 February 2010
Leaving St Lucia for Guadelope
Monday, 1 February 2010
Climbing or Drinking the Pitons, that is the Question.
Yesterday was devoted to the theme of the Pitons. However, the four of us decided to interpret the theme little differently. In order to give you readers a little background the Pitons are two volcanic mountains, the Gros Piton (771 m) and the Petit Piton (743 m) which beautifully rise up next to the little village called Soufrière in St Lucia. I have been talking about climbing these mountains since we entered the Carribean and ever since Maria has claimed that when I would be climbing she would take care of the other Piton, namely the local St Lucian beer called Piton. And indeed she did, but at first both Maria and Jane joined me and Cecilia a quarter of the steep climb towards the top. Yeah, the climb up the Petit Piton was a lot steeper than we imagined. At first we thought we could climb the mountain our own but on the way there a local Rasta man called Pascal insisted on guiding us even though we explained to him we wouldn’t afford paying him as much as the passengers from the cruise liners can. Thanks Pascal for guiding us, without you we would never have made it! When Maria and Jane left us for the little more refreshing and tasteful Pitons at a restaurant in the village, Cecilia and I continued the climb with ropes and shortness of breath. At least I felt that the last six months’ lack of greater scheduled physical activity and increased beer consumption have left their mark on me. However, eventually after having had to use ropes in order to climb up the steep rocks we made it to the top with sweat pouring down all over. The top of the Petit Piton gave us a fantastic view of St Lucia and we could also see all the way to St Vincent. The way down was a lot easier than the way up and after Pascal had shown us some of the delicious local fruits that can be find in the forest the three of us joined the tipsy girls for some cold tasteful drinkable Pitons.
Today we have left Soufrière and continued to a little famous bay called Marigot Bay, in any time we will go limin’ with some locals. But before leaving you I would like to take the opportunity to send a special greeting to my aunt Agneta Lindström and Maria’s grandma Kerstin Ingerup who helped us sew the courtesy flags for the countries we are visiting now. Thank you so much! Love / First Mate